"[O]utdoors we are confronted everywhere with wonders; we see that the miraculous is not extraordinary but the common mode of existence. It is our daily bread. Whoever really has considered the lilies of the field or the birds of the air and pondered the improbability of their existence in this warm world within the cold and empty stellar distances will hardly balk at the turning of water into wine- which was, after all, a very small miracle. We forget the greater and still continuing miracle by which water (with soil and sunlight) is turned into grapes."
-Wendell Berry, The Art of the Commonplace: The Agrarian Essays
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| Grape vine at Montefioralle Vineyard |
It's a question that I have realized that we Americans (and pretty much all people living in modern, developed countries) don't ask enough: Where does our food come from? Up until a few years ago, I, along with many people, would have told you that food comes from the supermarket; but it's an unexamined statement, isn't it? And one that reveals how completely ignorant and apathetic we are toward some the most beautiful processes of the Earth and some of the most horrifying aspects of our society.
We'll save a serious discussion of the horrors of the modern food industry for another day. (Incidentally, this is a topic that I'm always interested in and if someone has some good reading or viewing suggestions on this subject, please let me know). For now, let's stick to vino.
With my parents and Aunt CB and Uncle Dale who were visiting two weeks ago, I had the privilege of visiting two vineyards and drinking copious amounts of wine (which will surprise nobody who knows either my parents or my aunt and uncle). We traveled for a day in Tuscany with an exceptionally wonderful tour guide, Monika Iris and she introduced us to the delightful Fernando, a vineyard owner whom I can only describe as adorable, making some fabulous Chianti Classicos and Tuscan reds in Montefioralle, just above the more well-known town of Greve-in-Chianti.
In our time sitting around his table, Fernando explained to us what it takes to make a true "Chianti Classico":
1. It has to be at least 80% Sangiovese grapes. (The rest can be a mix of other types of grapes)
2. All the grapes must be grown within a certain geographical area that covers about 100 square miles, the Chianti region of Tuscany, between Florence and Siena.
3. The grapes cannot be irrigated, they must grow naturally in the climate and conditions that only Mother Nature decides.
Wines meeting these three conditions can then go through the process where they are certified by the government, which controlls the standard, to be officially bottled as "Chianti Classico."
The point that was puzzling to me was the restriction on irrigation. After all, if you have the opportunity to improve the conditions of the grapes--why wouldn't you?? (Someone can argue with me on this point, but I think it's a very American attitude somehow, trying to control nature).
"Grapes grow naturally in the place where they come from," Monika told us. Because these grapes are native to the area, they don't need the help. The differences in precipitation (and all the other environmental factors too!) give each vintage of wine its particular character.
She also added that she felt that Sangiovese grapes have something in common with the people of the Chianti area, including our new friend Fernando and Monika herself who was born in Germany, but considers herself a true Tuscan. These grapes, she told us, aren't like the "spoiled" French Cabernet and Merlot grapes, that need a lot of "pampering." They work hard and they thrive, even when conditions are less than ideal. It's a characteristic of the people, but it gives character to the wine too.
Perhaps it's poetic romanticism or perhaps it's true; but I love to think that the character of the people, the character of the land and the character of the grapes all come out in the taste of the wine. You can taste the dramatic, sweeping views enjoyed by the grapes from the top of the hill; you can taste every drop of rain that did or didn't fall; you can taste the sweet, freshness of the air and, best of all, you can savor the delicious Tuscan sunshine, which could really sustain you all on its own.
Now that is something you'll never find in a supermarket: the chance to dirty your shoes with the soil that nourished the wine and the opportunity to shake the hand that took so much care to produce it. Now that is something that I can drink to.
So please, wherever you are in the world, open a bottle of Chianti tonight...for me!
My glass is raised to Mother Nature, to Fernando and to you!
Salute!
With my parents and Aunt CB and Uncle Dale who were visiting two weeks ago, I had the privilege of visiting two vineyards and drinking copious amounts of wine (which will surprise nobody who knows either my parents or my aunt and uncle). We traveled for a day in Tuscany with an exceptionally wonderful tour guide, Monika Iris and she introduced us to the delightful Fernando, a vineyard owner whom I can only describe as adorable, making some fabulous Chianti Classicos and Tuscan reds in Montefioralle, just above the more well-known town of Greve-in-Chianti.
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| Us with Fernando in Montefioralle |
1. It has to be at least 80% Sangiovese grapes. (The rest can be a mix of other types of grapes)
2. All the grapes must be grown within a certain geographical area that covers about 100 square miles, the Chianti region of Tuscany, between Florence and Siena.
3. The grapes cannot be irrigated, they must grow naturally in the climate and conditions that only Mother Nature decides.
Wines meeting these three conditions can then go through the process where they are certified by the government, which controlls the standard, to be officially bottled as "Chianti Classico."
The point that was puzzling to me was the restriction on irrigation. After all, if you have the opportunity to improve the conditions of the grapes--why wouldn't you?? (Someone can argue with me on this point, but I think it's a very American attitude somehow, trying to control nature).
"Grapes grow naturally in the place where they come from," Monika told us. Because these grapes are native to the area, they don't need the help. The differences in precipitation (and all the other environmental factors too!) give each vintage of wine its particular character.
She also added that she felt that Sangiovese grapes have something in common with the people of the Chianti area, including our new friend Fernando and Monika herself who was born in Germany, but considers herself a true Tuscan. These grapes, she told us, aren't like the "spoiled" French Cabernet and Merlot grapes, that need a lot of "pampering." They work hard and they thrive, even when conditions are less than ideal. It's a characteristic of the people, but it gives character to the wine too.
Perhaps it's poetic romanticism or perhaps it's true; but I love to think that the character of the people, the character of the land and the character of the grapes all come out in the taste of the wine. You can taste the dramatic, sweeping views enjoyed by the grapes from the top of the hill; you can taste every drop of rain that did or didn't fall; you can taste the sweet, freshness of the air and, best of all, you can savor the delicious Tuscan sunshine, which could really sustain you all on its own.
Now that is something you'll never find in a supermarket: the chance to dirty your shoes with the soil that nourished the wine and the opportunity to shake the hand that took so much care to produce it. Now that is something that I can drink to.
So please, wherever you are in the world, open a bottle of Chianti tonight...for me!
My glass is raised to Mother Nature, to Fernando and to you!
Salute!
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| The vineyard |
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